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An Exclusive Interview with a Footwear Visionary: Havva Mustafa

September 18, 2024

In this insightful interview, a third-generation shoe artisan, designer, and founder of HAVVA, Havva Mustafa shares her journey from growing up surrounded by her family’s craft to building a footwear brand that blends tradition, innovation, and personal vision. Explore her design philosophy, the challenges she faced in launching her brand, and her thoughts on the future of footwear and the role of creativity in an ever-evolving industry.

Join us as we explore Havva Mustafa’s passion, artistry, and craftsmanship that drive her every step in shaping the next generation of innovative and timeless footwear design. 

Can you tell us a bit about your background? How did you find design, and how did you pursue it?

I come from a family of shoe artisans, now in our third generation. My love for footwear began in childhood, surrounded by lasts and constant conversations about shoes. When it came time for university, I naturally chose to study at LCF: Cordwainers Footwear. Afterwards, I worked as a designer for trend-focused brands, but I eventually felt the pull to create something uniquely mine. That’s when I launched my own brand, allowing me to channel my passion for footwear into a personal and creative vision. It felt like the only way to fully express my love and knowledge of shoes.

What would you say is your personal design philosophy? How has this philosophy evolved throughout the years?

As I grew up, my style evolved with me. It’s a journey of discovering who you are and what resonates most. As a brand, we focus on timeless styles that can seamlessly cycle through your wardrobe. Season after season, we aim to offer designs that blend contemporary elegance with a playful spirit. We create for the multifaceted woman—those who lead busy lives and prioritise personal style over fleeting trends.

What inspired you to create your own brand, HAVVA? Can you share some of the challenges you faced and how you overcame them?

I’ve always wanted to create something that was truly my own, to have complete creative freedom in footwear design. After the challenges of COVID and Brexit, we needed to find the right partner who shared our passion. We found that partner in an incredible factory in Italy, and when I first visited, surrounded by the sights and smells of shoes being made, I felt at home again. It was such a relief, especially during a time of uncertainty. That moment marked the beginning of bringing my vision to life once more.

How did you approach the process of differentiating HAVVA from other footwear brands, and what do you think has been key to its success?

We moved away from chasing trends and focused on creating high-quality, thoughtful designs that truly resonate with both us and our customers. Our key has been staying true to what we love and want to see in footwear, rather than constantly reinventing.

Can you share how the legacy of your family’s craft has shaped your identity as a designer and how it influences your work at HAVVA?

Coming from a lineage of footwear artisans has given me a deep appreciation for the craft. I’m passionate about preserving that legacy—the art of shoemaking is incredibly intricate and beautiful, and I want our customers to understand what goes into making a pair of shoes. It’s about investing in something meaningful. You could buy several pairs of shoes, but one exceptional pair can take you through many stages of life and still be just as valuable years later if cared for.

How has your experience as a footwear designer and brand founder influenced your teaching style? Do you bring insights from your experiences directly into the classroom?

I absolutely love teaching. I teach short courses at London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins, as well as BA Footwear at LCF. Seeing students share the same enthusiasm for footwear is incredibly rewarding. I’m honest with them—it’s a tough industry, but if they’re passionate and willing to work hard, they can make it. I encourage them to embrace their individuality because that’s what sets a designer apart. My experiences in the industry definitely shaped my teaching; I want them to leave inspired, but also grounded in the realities of the field.

Could you share a particularly memorable moment of your journey that you still think about to this day?

There are so many memorable moments, but one that stands out was when our shoes were picked up by the international retailer LuisaViaRoma. That was a huge milestone—it felt like validation that we were on the right path. Another unforgettable moment was our first press tour in New York and then returning to London to find multiple publications calling us the “it” brand to watch was surreal. Sharing those achievements with my brother, Ali, made them even more special.

As a jury member for the Global Footwear Awards, what do you prioritize when evaluating designs?

I look at the project as a whole—what’s the story behind the design? What’s the inspiration and purpose? Then I dive into the design itself and consider sustainability, which is so important today. I also think about whether the design is practical and achievable. I’m always excited to see how the future of footwear unfolds through these innovative designers.

What advice would you give to aspiring designers?

Get out there and immerse yourself in the industry. It’s not just about sketching; visit factories, see what’s popular in stores, and attend trade shows to stay on top of the latest developments in materials and design. The more you learn, the better you’ll be at designing. Don’t be afraid to ask questions—like my father says, “If you don’t ask, you don’t get!” Keep evolving, show what you’re capable of, and always be open to feedback. Your journey as a designer is a constant learning process.

What do you envision for the future, both for yourself and for the broader design community?

The world is changing rapidly, and I believe AI will play a significant role in accelerating design and manufacturing processes. However, I don’t think it will ever replace the need for human creativity. Without that human spark, a product lacks soul. With the rise of video-based social media, people are becoming more open about their views on fashion, and the industry feels less like a guarded secret. Consumers are increasingly aware of what they’re buying—they want to know the story and the craftsmanship behind a product, not just its design. That’s why I think it’s essential to highlight the artistry and complexity of footwear craftsmanship. It helps people appreciate the value and care that goes into creating each pair.