Global Footwear Awards Category winner Maria Bika discussed Walking in Silence, GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. Walking in Silence was awarded the best in Medical category for Independent level.
GFA talks with Maria Bika about her background and her winning project.
Tell us more about your project?
My work aims to point out the importance of meditation and spirituality in the contemporary world, where more and more people suffer from anxiety and stress. The footwear I am proposing is designed so as to help people relax and meditate, and at the same time get into deeper contact with their inner center. The design combines the principles of nature and reflexology. The main materials of the collection are the hard wood (Walnut and Oak), leather and some parts of silicone. During the whole design and construction process, I have been using recycled wood and leather.
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
My project suggests a new footwear form and indicates our need for self-concentration and internalization. I also believe that the combination of the materials is unique and minimal.
What does this award mean to you personally?
This award is an affirmation for me and gives the motive to keep researching and creating. It makes me happy and reminds me not to give up my dream.
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
The most important factor was the construction process and how could I translate my concept idea into a 3D Footwear outcome that would be effective. A great challenge I faced was the process of giving shape to the final wooden parts and the definitive curve of the wooden sole.
What is your guiding design principle?
My aim is to design minimal shoes, inspired by architecture, that are effective, unique and propose a new way of walking and standing. I want to create innovative body shapes that help people to relax and distress.
Where do you get motivation and inspiration from for your work?
My motivation derives from my deep love for footwear and my personal vision for a better world. I always observe people and the way they tend to move or stand. I also get inspiration from nature and architecture, history and art.
How/when did you discover that you wanted to work in design?
Since I was a kid, I have always been attracted into drawing, fashion and footwear design. After graduating Architecture School in Athens, I was sure that design is what I wanted to do.
Is there something [shoes or any other product] that you wished you had designed?
A footwear model that I love and I would love to have been part of its creation, is the Melissa Shoes from Zaha Hadid Architects.
How do you think your own culture and environment has shaped your personal and professional creative vision?
Regarding my environment, my parents love art and travelling around the world, so I always loved visiting museums and going to galleries since I was a young girl. Additionally, my greek culture has definitely influenced my creative vision, and ancient Greek history is still for me a source of inspiration along with my experiences from my trips in Europe, America and Asia.
Tell us about a project which has been your greatest achievement?
My final thesis in London College of Fashion, called Moving in Silence, is for me my greatest achievement so far, as it was the first time I designed a full footwear collection and managed to complete its construction and publication. It is a project I deeply love and it expresses my design character and my personality.
Which designer in footwear industry do you most admire and why?
I deeply admire Eelko Moorer because he is really an innovative and conceptual footwear designer and he is an inspirational professor. Furthemore, I love Zaha Hadid’s fashion projects and I admire Rem D Koolhas and United Nude for their architectural shoes.
How do you feel footwear design has evolved over the past years and how do you see it evolving in the future?
Footwear design for me is an expression of the culture and society and it evolves as history changes along with the way of life, of style and the terms of beauty and fashion. I believe that shoes are becoming more and more comfortable and attached to our everyday reality which demands a lot of energy and constant movement. Technology, Ecology and Gender are definitely three factors that will determine how footwear design is going to evolve during the next years to come.
What do you think are the biggest challenges and opportunities in your career and the industry now?
Industry gives you a number of different possibilities, and you have the chance to work abroad and meet new people and be part of amazing footwear projects. A big challenge I see in my career is that you need to have a number of qualifications and have knowledge of the new technology and the medical shoe.
What would be your dream design project?
My dream design project is a shoe that would combine design with biomimetics, and would give the wearer the opportunity to experience dreams, old memories and feeling while using the pair.
What’s your creative process and what creative software do you use?
Everything starts from concept design for me. I always start from abstract sketches and random ideas and trying to translate them into 3D mock-ups. Regarding the creative software, I am using Rhino, AutoCAD and Revit.
What kind of questions do you ask before beginning a shoe design? What piece of information is of utmost value?
When I began to design a shoe project, I always write down my core idea and what I want these shoes to express. Who is going to be the user and the environment where they are going to wear the shoes. After, organizing all these factors, I question myself how can they become environment-friendly and still express the design I have in my mind. Overall, for me less is more when it comes to design and despite what we create, as designer, it is always necessary to think about the ecology and the sustainability of the shoes.
What kind of culture or structure needs to exist to foster successful team collaboration?
Team collaboration is vital for a project to become successful. For that to happen, it is very important to have a clear organization and an equal post division. Each member of the team should have specific qualifications and tasks to accomplish. And team should be fun, because when you are happy somewhere you always give back the best you have.
How do you deal with feedback?
Feedback is fundamental for going forward and becoming a better designer. It is something that I am used in since I was a student in Architecture, because you would receive all the time feedback both from professors and students. It makes you stronger to brave to deal with your possible mistakes.
What are you working on now, what is in the pipeline for you?
Right now, I am a fellow teacher in National Technical University of Athens. At the same time, I am dealing with my brand RΞAA and any footwear or architectural project I can accomplish.
How has the pandemic affected your work and design process?
Pandemic was something unpredicted that affected 100% my design process. I had to stay home and try new ways of creating and making. And, after all, my brand idea express the human need to stay calm despite all this anxiety and distress through footwear.
How do you feel about the topic of sustainability in regards to footwear design in general?
Sustainability and Ecology are still a big matter for shoe industry and there are a number of different factors that still need to get solved. For me, footwear design has to go along with sustainability as this is something that affects the design and the construction process.
What would you tell your younger self seeing you winning the awards?
I would congratulate my younger self and remind me to stay focus on my design vision.
With so many designs coming out daily, how do you keep pushing boundaries in footwear deign?
That is really a good question, as footwear designs come out all the time. But, I believe that sometimes you should focus on your design and think about your own creative direction. When you really desire to be innovative and push boundaries in footwear design, you should work constantly and research your topic.
Where do you start when tackling innovative design solutions?
When you tackle innovative ideas, it’s good for me to start from point 0 and try to walk away for the project for some period of time, like one or 2 days, and then summarize all your actions and design aims. It is true that the best ideas come when you don’t expect them to come.
What advice would you give to future aspiring footwear designers?
Never stop dreaming and working. It is important to love this if you want to succeed. There will be challenging times of difficulties and obstacles. But, when you focus on your own design vision you always manage to make it through. Learn as much as possible, and enjoy all the process despite any prize or achievement.
What do you think will keep pushing the footwear industries forward?
Societies and Cultures evolve and change all the time, as the human need and what footwear industry desires. Shoes are closed attached to all the people and determine our everyday way of life. Additionally, technology is affecting the footwear industry and will certainly continue to do so.
What do you wish to see more of in the footwear industries?
I wish to see equality, respect to all human beings and constant design innovation.
How do you handle pressure in design?
I cannot deny you that I always work better in pressure. It is then that I manage to accomplish even the most difficult parts of a project.
How do you feel about the impact of new technology towards footwear design and the industry as a whole?
Technology and 3D innovations, along with biomimeitcs and science, will help footwear to evolve even more. It will affect the design, the walking experience but also the manufacture process.
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Jaden Zhai Ko discussed Sonic IQ 1.0 , GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. Sonic IQ 1.0 was awarded the best in kids category for independent level.
Sonic IQ 1.0 is an assistive footwear technology designed to help aurally challenged young athletes communicate during team sports and physical education. This project primarily focuses on basketball, but can be applicable to other team sports.
GFA talks with Jaden Zhai about his winning project.
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
The strength of this project is that it can be implemented by schools and athletic programs to be more inclusive to students with hearing disabilities. With the advances in wearable technology, this project can be feasible within the near future and improve physical education for youth living with hearing loss.
What does this award mean to you personally?
This award gave me the validation that my concept resonates with people. I am glad to see that my idea spoke to the judges, and this gives me the confidence to develop this concept even further.
What is your guiding design principle?
The principle that guided me throughout the entire design process is to focus on the user. It was important to understand the user and make sure that I am catering to their needs. Sometimes it is easy to forget that this product is not for me, so it’s important to put myself in the user’s shoes at all times (no pun intended).
How/when did you discover that you wanted to work in design?
I always loved to build thing with my hands. Ever since I was a kid I liked to draw and take toys apart to see how it worked. When I got older, I understood that I had a talent for creating, and I knew that design work was what I wanted to do.
Is there something [shoes or any other product] that you wished you had designed?
If I wasn’t into footwear design, I would have liked to do packaging design. I had always been interested in the creative ways that packaging can communicate brand image.
Which designer in the footwear industry do you most admire and why?
One of the designers I admire the most in the footwear industry is D’Wayne Edwards. He was the designer of the Jordan XX and XXI, but most importantly, he is the founder of Pensole Academy. He was a great mentor for me during my time at Pensole, and I admire his mission to provide opportunities to the next generation of designers. D’Wayne always challenges his students to think outside the box, and pushes them to be the best version of themselves. Today, a huge portion of footwear designers in the industry had been under D’Wayne’s mentorship at Pensole.
How do you feel footwear design has evolved over the past years and how do you see it evolving in the future?
Over the last few years, there has been a lot more emphasis on experimental forms, 3d printing, and non-traditional manufacturing methods in footwear. Also there has been a huge shift towards environmentally conscious design. I think eventually we will achieve at least 75% sustainability within the footwear industry.
What do you think are the biggest challenges and opportunities in your career and the industry now?
I think the biggest challenge for aspiring footwear designers trying to break into the industry is having talent but not enough experience. A lot of companies tend to hire designers with a certain amount of experience, and that’s tough for young designers trying to make it. Sometimes you really just need your work to be seen by the right person, whether it’s a design manager or director, so it’s important to network and get your name out there.
What would be your dream design project?
Working with a professional basketball player or an artist to design his/her signature shoe would be a dream project of mine.
What’s your creative process and what creative software do you use?
I usually start sketching on my iPad during the ideation phase. Depending on the project, I might also cut up some old shoes or mold some clay to experiment with physical forms. Then I would tape up and draw on a last to get the proportions right. When finalizing a design, I’d render using a combination of Illustrator, Photoshop, and Procreate. Currently, I’m playing around with software such as Gravity Sketch and Blender to learn to render in 3D.
What would you tell your younger self seeing you winning the awards?
I would tell my younger self to just keep working hard, don’t stop creating, and the right people will see your potential and give you an opportunity.
Learn more of Jaden Zhai at https://jadenzhai.com/
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Yehuda Azoulay discussed Link, Flipshoe, GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. Link, Flipshoe was awarded the best in unisex category for pro level.
Link, Flipshoe is innovative shoe patent. Sole-based shoes. Link is free like flip-flops and safe like shoes – a new species of shoe – perfect for the intensive urban life. The design team of Link, Flip shoe includes: Olga Kravchenko, Elad Rash, Tamir Lavie, Roy Toledano.
GFA talks with Yehuda about his background and his winning project.
What is your background?
I have more than 25 years of experience in a vast area of design, for both private as well as public sector. My business includes product design, advertising, publishing, corporate design, web design, UX, UI and interactive projects. My unique contribution is in putting forward meaning and visibility that stands to challenge conventional thinking, and to break standard perceptions.
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
The fact that these are not shoes that included just design manipulations but rather revolutionary changes in the structure of the shoe that allows walking in a way that was not known until today.
What does this award mean to you personally?
Great satisfaction, appreciation for the long journey I have made together with my wonderful partners
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
The most important thing for me was (which also turned out to be the biggest challenge) to allow walkin with a shoe that on the one hand will protect the foot and on the other hand will be ventilated to the maximum – like a horseshoe to the foot.
What is your guiding design principle?
As simple as possible. We have reduced the details to the required minimum. The knowledge is that simplicity has a functional, and emotional value and that is what we aspired to achieve.
Where do you get motivation and inspiration from for your work?
From a horseshoe. The ambition was to achieve something similar for human feet. There were quite a few options that were examined and in the end we chose the current option.
How/when did you discover that you wanted to work in design?
It happened about 30 years ago and it didn’t start with shoe design but with graphic design. Once I discovered that design is a way to create my own world, it pushed me to try to design everything and indeed I experimented with architectural design, interior design, product design and more – by the way, the credit for the design of Link structure belongs to Olga Kravchenko.
Is there something [shoes or any other product] that you wished you had designed?
I would very much like to be the one who invented the wheel. It is a basic and simple object whose effect is infinite in our world. I’m always trying to think of how I can take something basic and make it even more basic.
How do you think your own culture and environment has shaped your personal and professional creative vision?
I think the Israeli culture in which I grew up constantly challenges you to think quickly about solutions to problems that are constantly emerging – I kind of believe that in a more relaxed culture, the burst of innovation is more delayed.
What would be your dream design project?
I really want to design products whose impact on the world is dramatically significant. My desire is to have the time and money to invest everything in solutions that will allow even the weakest groups in the world to have an equal opportunity.
What is your design mantra you live by?
More is waste (of better resources and ideas)
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Dina Aller discussed WA/Harmony, GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. WA/Harmony was awarded the best in Women’s Casual category for student level.
GFA talks with Dina about her background and her winning project.
Tell us more about your project?
My idea was to make sandals whose design would be historically associated with Japanese culture. I was inspired by Japanese hieroglyphs. Japanese historical philosophy is conveyed by the hieroglyph Wa. Wa (“Japan, Japanese”) in China, Korea, and Japan were so named in Japan until the 8th century. Wa means “harmony, peace, balance”. Japan is a world leader in life expectancy. The secret lies in a healthy lifestyle and a balanced diet. For the project, I chose natural materials based on a healthy lifestyle. WA unisex sandals can be fully extended for easy storage and transport.
What is your background?
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
Deep exploration of the topic and strong concept
What does this award mean to you personally?
I wanted to try my strengths and get feedback. For me, this is personal growth and support.
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
The most important thing was to get to the point, find and understand how to give an abstract idea a form. My mentor taught me not to wait for inspiration, but to seek, use different techniques and bring ideas to life.
What is your guiding design principle?
Simplicity, aesthetics and functionality
Where do you get motivation and inspiration from for your work?
From philosophy
How/when did you discover that you wanted to work in design?
I don’t know exactly, it happened by itself. I have always been multifunctional, my first higher education was programming, then I started to do graphic design, opened my own company to design jewelry. At some point, I realized that I wanted to go further, reveal my potential, entered the art academy and discovered a new world for myself!
Is there something [shoes or any other product] that you wished you had designed?
Bookbinding, but shoes also appeal to me, because shoe design is a complex process due to the many surfaces.
How do you think your own culture and environment has shaped your personal and professional creative vision?
Absolutely. I grew up in a foreign culture, which remained a mystery until I knew the language of the country in which I was born. But it allowed me to see the culture of the country from the outside. An outside perspective on other cultures is very useful for me, it allows me to see the whole picture, and only then an in-depth study opens up new facets and opportunities.
Tell us about a project which has been your greatest achievement?
Today it is undoubtedly the GFA, but also last year I was lucky enough to receive the Student Prize for book binding of the exhibition of artistic bookbindings Scripta Manent VI http://www.scriptamanent.ee/indexE.html
Which designer in footwear industry do you most admire and why?
The first person who comes to mind is Ferragamo, his design is innovative, aesthetic and functional.
How do you feel footwear design has evolved over the past years and how do you see it evolving in the future?
3D is striking, I think it will develop sustainable. It will be easier to manufacture and of course less chemicals will be used, allowing for safe disposal or reuse.
What do you think are the biggest challenges and opportunities in your career and the industry now?
In my country, I see that I do not have many opportunities, since we do not have many companies engaged in the production of footwear, and many of those that worked last year are already closed today.
What would be your dream design project?
I would like to work for a large company and get more experience. I would like to work on large projects in a team, make a design for people so that it is in demand.
What’s your creative process and what creative software do you use?
Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, AutoCAD, Fusion360
What kind of questions do you ask before beginning a shoe design? What piece of information is of utmost value?
Why? The answer to this question may be endless, but it allows you to see the essence of the problem or task.
What kind of culture or structure needs to exist to foster successful team collaboration?
Trust, I think, is also openness. Listening often solves many questions.
How do you deal with feedback?
Positively, this is experience and knowledge on the basis of which analysis and conclusions can be drawn.
What are you working on now, what is in the pipeline for you?
Above 2 projects – one of them related to the book business, the other to fashion. I can’t say any more until I’m finished. I’m keeping them a secret.
How has the pandemic affected your work and design process?
I began to work at home more time. I’m a freelancer, so I just changed my environment.
How do you feel about the topic of sustainability in regards to footwear design in general?
In general it is good, I think it will give positive changes. Since the topic of resilience is a revolution of thinking in the first place.
What would you tell your younger self seeing you winning the awards?
Be brave and more confident in yourself.
What is your design mantra you live by?
Do for people what you would like for yourself.
With so many designs coming out daily, how do you keep pushing boundaries in footwear deign?
I have different directions in design, in general I am engaged in graphic design and design of accessories. I don’t have many shoe design projects separately.
Where do you start when tackling innovative design solutions?
From the analysis and solution of the question why.
What advice would you give to future aspiring footwear designers?
Don’t limit yourself.
What do you think will keep pushing the footwear industries forward?
Technology, of course. The easier and faster, the cheaper and more profitable I think.
What do you wish to see more of in the footwear industries?
More natural materials.
How do you handle pressure in design?
I turn my attention to other things. I like to attend painting and drawing classes, it allows me to just create without solving any problems.
How do you feel about the impact of new technology towards footwear design and the industry as a whole?
I think this process is like a locomotive, it rushes changing our views and opinions. I am a connoisseur of traditional technologies, I would like this locomotive to carry a train that includes the knowledge and skills that people have accumulated over the years. Mastering traditional techniques allows you to take a new look at technology.
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Chiyang Duan discussed mutualism, GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. mutualism was awarded the best in special category for pro level.
Chiyang’s Background.
Fashion /Accessories/jewellery/
Chiyang duan is a jewellery maker, accessory and fashion designer. He graduated from BCU school of jewellery in 2019, and continue studying Fashion and accessories design in Royal College of Art till now.
GFA talks with Chiyang Duan about his winning project.
Tell us about your project?
mutualism : The coexistence of plants and rocks inspired me a new possibilities for sustainability which is mutualism.
I did research on how human walk on soil ,the sole directly touch the soil and part of it will sink in to the soil.
Then I explored a new mixed material that mixed grass seeds with silicon and cement which include nutrients，When it’s stressed and deformed , seeds and cement will fall out，after that，seeds still sprout. I developed it into shoes cover which can be worn over by any type of shoes，When the user wears it and walking on mud, it can easily spread plants seeds at same time.
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
My project is reflecting on how to allow the wearer to truly participate in the protection of the environment, and interact with the design project.
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
Let footwear not only be a pair of shoes that can be worn, but also an object that can produce interaction. Thinking about new ways of wearing and innovative forms is the most difficult part.
Where do you get motivation and inspiration from for your work?
Seeing the plants growing out of the cracks in the wall, it showed strong vitality.
What do you think are the biggest challenges and opportunities in your career and the industry now?
footwear design is not only beautiful and form innovation, but can also be functional and playable.
How do you deal with feedback?
Positive feed are inspiring, but bad restrict feedback make progress.
What advice would you give to future aspiring footwear designers?
stop just play with form，think and design in different perspective.
What do you wish to see more of in the footwear industries?
People from backgrounds bring different design method.
How do you handle pressure in design?
Appreciating and observing great work by other designers that encourages me to keep working.
How do you feel about the impact of new technology towards footwear design and the industry as a whole?
New technologies such as 3d printing help designers to work efficiently, and the diversity and possibilities of the industry give footwear designer more development directions
What do you think will keep pushing the footwear industries forward?
3D printing， Diversity, inclusiveness.
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Zuzana Bahulova discussed Vi-Tech Footwear Skin, GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear.Hi-Tech Footwear Skin was awarded the best in medical category for pro level.
Hi-Tech Footwear Skin is a functional and aesthetical footwear for woman. Unique upper construction react to swelling of the legs and has a long-term reversible deformability. The functionality of the footwear is supported by an innovative sole construction with breathable membrane.
The project partner is the company BAŤA, a.s.
Zuzana’s background
Zuzana Bahulova is a Czech designer, and currently working for the Footwear Research Centre at Tomas Bata University in Zlín. Doctor Bahulova has a PhD in animation and during her studies she was on several prestigious stays abroad, one of them was at the CalArts in the USA, established by Walt Disney. Her projects won prestigious design awards such as Global Footwear Awards, Red Dot and German Innovation Awards. You could see her clothes collection for the Olympic Games worn by German and Jamaican national teams. Recently, Dr. Bahulova has been selected for one of the 100 Marshall Memorial Fellowships 2021.
GFA talks with Zuzana about her winning project.
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
The combination of new technologies, design, functionality and the medical support of the product.
What does this award mean to you personally?
It is a great honor and achievement for my team from our Footwear Research Centre.
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
Good teamwork in the process of creation and reaching all our goals. I would say that the combination of the design part and following all technology rules need to be done for realizing a successful product.
What is your guiding design principle?
Simplicity, functionality and reaching the customer needs ideally including good esthetic aspects.
Where do you get motivation and inspiration from for your work?
From the observation of other people, the environment, watching at products wherever I travel.
How/when did you discover that you wanted to work in design?
Creativity is something natural for me and people with whom I am working. In kids’ age we were all very creative in my family. I never stopped being creative. During my childhood I started building houses from Lego now I am building products for real customers. The principles are the same. Good ideas and following my passion.
Is there something [shoes or any other product] that you wished you had designed?
It is always good to be the first in anything. Maybe when I could be like Ötzi.:) He produced one of the first winter shoes cca 5,300-year ago.
How do you think your own culture and environment has shaped your personal and professional creative vision?
My parents always told me: “Do what you enjoy. Follow your heart.” So I try to follow that advice and combined with hard workI I had a chance to be a coworker with great colleagues, mentors or customers. All together influenced my creative vision.
Tell us about a project which has been your greatest achievement?
One of the biggest achievements is that my team for this project “Hitech footwear skin” got an award at Global Footwear Awards. We are very glad that the jury matches all our innovations combined with modern design. The development took us two years and was supported by the University Tomas Bata in Zlin and the Czech Technology Agency.
Which designer in footwear industry do you most admire and why?
I wouldn’t say designer but manufacturer Tomas Bata. He established the company BATA. In his factories were employed several generations of my family and relatives. He built up the city where I was born and the impact you can see on every corner in Zlin.
How do you feel footwear design has evolved over the past years and how do you see it evolving in the future?
As my mentor Professor Saha mentions, that is great visionar mentions. In all industrial fields you could see great progress regarding innovations, unfortunately in the shoe industry not so much. I can just agree with him. People are looking for individuals so they prefer original shoes designed for them or by them.
What do you think are the biggest challenges and opportunities in your career and the industry now?
To speak globally about industry in this COVID time when nothing is predictable is very difficult. For me and my team would be great to do another project that is at least half successful as this one “Hi tech footwear skin” would be amazing.
What would be your dream design project?
My dream is to design shoes for rowing boats. I am a designer of sport collection for Olympic games for several national teams in rowing. Nevertheless shoes I haven’t designed yet. I did that sport on a professional level so I understand very well all the functionalists and innovation that needs to be done.
What’s your creative process and what creative software do you use?
Paper and pencil are the basis of the working process for me. Next step is choose materials and make a visualization, print out a 3D model after that can be done as the first prototype. Software – Adobe suits.
What kind of questions do you ask before beginning a shoe design? What piece of information is of utmost value?
It is necessary to set up goals and answer several questions like: for whom I am designing, what are the functions etc.
What kind of culture or structure needs to exist to foster successful team collaboration?
Creating a “Team Passion” to achieve something new, innovative and useful.
How do you deal with feedback?
Feedback for me as a designer is one of the most important things. It can be very painful but constructive criticism can push me to reach my limits to design something great.
What are you working on now, what is in the pipeline for you?
The Footwear Research Center belongs under Tomas Bata University. Actually we are working on applying for a grants for new projects. More information I am not authorized for.
How has the pandemic affected your work and design process?
As well as to many other people, the pandemic complicated our plans and lifes. When it started we had been in the middle of the process with designated protype “Hi tech footwear skin”. Thanks to all my colleagues, we finished all our goals more or less without losing time and this was our target.
How do you feel about the topic of sustainability in regards to footwear design in general?
I see it very positively that many people are talking about that and it is one of the priorities of many companies. When customers will ask for that, companies will be more and more pushed to produce sustainable products.
What would you tell your younger self seeing you winning the awards?
Your dream turned into reality, well done.
What is your design mantra you live by?
“Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass. It is about learning how to dance in the rain.” Vivian Greene, Author
With so many designs coming out daily, how do you keep pushing boundaries in footwear deign?
I believe in myself.
Where do you start when tackling innovative design solutions?
First is to check issues that need to be solved.
What advice would you give to future aspiring footwear designers?
Follow your dreams – always think new.
What do you think will keep pushing the footwear industries forward?
New technologies will offer other possibilities on how to produce comfortable individual shoes in a reasonable time and acceptable prices for most of the population.
What do you wish to see more of in the footwear industries?
As an artist I should say more extravagant shoes. Nevertheless, as a human being I think higher priority has health for that reason I would say medi shoes.
How do you handle pressure in design?
I keep my own paths. When I am working on a project I don’t care about time, my personal needs, or other designs. I am 100% focused on completing the project successfully.
How do you feel about the impact of new technology towards footwear design and the industry as a whole?
It is another natural step to produce better shoes. It is like the evolution is always in progress and that’s great.
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Chia Yuan Ko discussed FTW_SYMT , GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. FTW_SYMT was awarded the best in sustainable category for student level.
“SYMT” stands for the geometry term “symmetry.” It is the project backbone, a sustainability thinking embodied as a pair of footwear, “FTW_SYMT“. Rethinking the starting point of the typical shoe making process paves way for the design direction of FTW_SYMT. By adopting a symmetrical die cut pattern upon each component on both feet, the total amount of steel-made molds drop to half; fusing paper pleating technique into the mono-material fabric increases the structural strength. The experimental approach proposes feasible options in balancing energy cost, craftsmanship and functionality.
Chia-Yuan’s background:
Chia-Yuan (Caleb) Ko / 高嘉元, essentialist, industrial designer and sneaker geek. He explores the intersection encompassing 3D interactive fabrication, origami texture and procedural art visualization, bridging physical and digital experience. His works are featured in international design communities such as Core77 Design Awards, IDA Design Awards, Global Footwear Award and Taiwan Design EXPO. He holds a BS in Industrial Design and currently a MID student at Pratt Institute.
GFA talks with Chia Yuan about his winning project.
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
The winning project, FTW_SYMT, is developed as an approach-driven design statement that provides feasible guidelines towards the future sustainability making. The project reimagines how to utilize the low-tech origami application upon footwear upper and translate the pleating structure into functional pieces. It is the sense of boldness exploring unconventional design approaches that becomes the major strength of the project.
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
The massive origami pattern-making iteration has yielded the critical insights on the shoe upper construction. The biggest challenge along the way is to balance the fabric ply and the sewing precision. Sewing 12 ply of the linens at the same time marks the largest thickness within the fabrication process.
What is your guiding design principle?
As I believe design should be as honest as possible, my guiding principle is to reveal the thought process behind it and take it as the exposing design languages; it is also a way to document the new knowledge discovered from the design or research process.
How do you think your own culture and environment has shaped your personal and professional creative vision?
I am not born with the rebellious nature but it is my body’s reaction towards the oppressive, academic-driven education system growing up in Taiwan. This type of developed nature has formed a desire to unveil the systematic framework behind the surfacing problem, having that strong inner voice to say NO to the known facts and to embark on feasible alternatives. My creative vision is initiated by knowing that everything is worth questioning when I was 18, and still working on the meta skill of being able to think about one’s thinking.
What would be your dream design project?
I’m working on an algorithm-driven customization framework, particularly for footwear, which is intersected by digital fabrication, crypto art and form-finding augmentation. This will be my dream project so far.
What’s your creative process and what creative software do you use?
My typical workflow mostly starts by messing around with papers, it plays a big part for myself searching certain logic in the ambiguity phase before diving into the sketches. Some go-to softwares in my footwear design pipeline include Rhino Grasshopper, Maya, p5.js and arduino.
How has the pandemic affected your work and design process?
Pandemic sucks for real, I couldn’t access my own 3D printer at school for almost a year. However, it gives me a chance to explore digital mediums such as multiple Grasshopper Plugins or interactive fabrication research with different sensors; later on all the tools become quite handy in my thesis year in 2020-2021.
How do you feel about the topic of sustainability in regards to footwear design in general?
Sustainability should become one of the founding criteria in formulating a footwear design no matter if it is about recyclability, energy cost or LCA. However, I don’t think sustainability should become a major sales pitch to the customer nor should it become a political issue judging any particular design.
What would you tell your younger self seeing you winning the awards? “Be weird and question everything.”
How do you feel about the impact of new technology towards footwear design and the industry as a whole?
I am thrilled to see how innovative fabrication tools, pushing the boundaries of sustainability, are centered in the dialogue of the footwear industry. The new technologies lowers the entry barrier to materialize the concept and elevates the overall taste and standard of the design outputs. Can’t wait to witness the day when footwear communities evolve into a closed-loop industry.
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Disha Vaid discussed VERTICO 2.O FUTURE FRAGMENT , GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. VERTICO 2.O FUTURE FRAGMENT was awarded the best in specific sports category for student level.
VERTICO 2.O FUTURE FRAGMENT is a rock climbing shoe designed for athlete ADAM ONDRA for his TOKYO 2021 Olympics debut in sport climbing.Which originally I conceptualised in 2019 inspired by his hardest climb CHANGE . We are living in unprecedented times & normal rules no longer apply.With the entire world looking at Olympics as a beacon of hope,served as a creative trigger to upcycle my design not only to enhance the performance of the athlete but also as a symbol of optimism , solidarity & unity in all of our diversity. Vertico 2.0 is based on the concept of circularity design-PDF for details.
GFA talks with Disha about her background and her winning project.
What is your background?
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
Strengths Of Both My Winning Projects Are That They Are Not Only Focussed On Innovative Solutions To Enhance The Performance Of My Consumer But Also On Sustainability , Ethical Practices And Social Impact . My Design Philosophy Is Based On My Believe That Sports Is A Common Sentiment Across Cultures ,Races And Continents And As A Conscious And Responsible Designer I Have Taken That As An Opportunity And Tried To Accomplish With These Projects Not Only Technologically Advanced Shoes But Also Tried To Disrupt The Social And Cultural Barriers , By Combining The Best Of Both Eastern And Western Worlds.
What does this award mean to you personally?
It Is Hard To Put My Feelings Into Words . The Award Has Strengthened My Believe In My Design Thinking Process Of Becoming More Conscious Of Social Impact And Humanitarian Needs Around The World, As Well As Exploring The Idea Of Empathetic And Intuitive Designs . ReceivIng Recognition On A Global Platform That Too Across Three Categories Has Definitely Motivated Me Further To Work Harder.
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
The Most Important Aspect For Me Was Minding My Beginnings And Endings . Designing For A Casue Which Was To Enhance The Performance Of My Consumer While Being Mindful Of The Unintended Consequences . The Biggest Challenge For Me Was To Make A Better Shoe By Using Sustainable Materials Without Compromising On The Performance Of A World Class Athlete For His Olympics Debut . I Think I Was Able To Present My Idea In A Seamless Fashion And It Resonated With The Jury Members.
What is your guiding design principle?
The Principle Which Acts As A Compass For Me Is To Make A User Friendly Product , With An Awareness Of The Potential Long-Term & Unintended Consequence On Our Environment In The Future.
Where do you get motivation and inspiration from for your work?
My Passion And My Hunger To Learn Keeps Me Motivated. Inspiration Can Have Different Meanings For Different People. If You Ask Me Personally I Have A Great Influence Of My Culture On My Designs In Terms Of Colors And Aesthetics . I Believe Culture Is A Very Powerful Thing That Influences Us Much More Than We Often Realise .What Is Best In My Culture That I Can Translate Into My Design And Make A Globally Relevant Product , Serves As An Inspiration . Besides This I Love To Travel And What Best I Observe In Different Cultures/Customs And People Around The World I Try And Translate That Into My Designs.
How/when did you discover that you wanted to work in design?
I Became A Designer By Accident . I Was Studying To Be A Doctor Because That Is A Stable And Lucrative Career Option In My Country .
But I Kind Of Lost Interest In Dissecting Earthworms , Rabbits And Frogs While Preparing To Get Into The Top Med Schools , They All Died By The Way , Because I Could Never Stitch Them Back Properly . I’ts Then When I Realised I Dont Want To Be A Doctor .
However , I Was Good In Making Detailed Microscopic Diagrams And I Could Make Them For Hours Without Getting Bored . I Thought Why Not Try Something In Fine Arts Or Fashion . So I Got A Degree In Design And Thats How My Journey Began As A Designer . It Was A Calling , Designing Was Something Which Came To Me Naturally And Instinctively.
How do you think your own culture and environment has shaped your personal and professional creative vision?
Designing Is More Of A Visual Thing , And One’s Culture Shapes The Way Our Brain Processes The Visual Information . India Has Long Been Associated With Colours Because Of Its Festivals, Costumes And Food. There Is Detailing In Traditional Art And Handicrafts . Sustainable And Environmentally Friendly Practices And Psyches Still Continue To Be Core Component Of Our Lifestyle And Culture , Long Before It Was Talked About In The West . Yoga And Ayurveda Are Perhaps Among The Most Well-Known Ways Of Conscious And Holistic Living. I Have Grown Up In A Culturally Diverse And Eco Concious Environment Which Has Definitely Shaped My Creative Vision.
Tell us about a project which has been your greatest achievement?
My Greatest Achievement Would Be Brand Sponsored Project By Jordan Which I Did While Studying At Pensole In Portland .
The Project – Redefining The Jordan Woman , Was Overseen By Former Design Directors Of Brand Jordan & Nike, D’wayne Edwards , Angela Madeline & Suzette Henry . The Final Presentation Was Held In The Presence Of Industry People From Nike World Head Quarters, Adidas World Head Quarters , Jordan , Converse ,Wild Fang ,Cross Colors & Bemis. Jordan Is The Most Idealised Sneaker Brand In The World And It Was A Great Opportunity For Me To Work With 4 Other Culturally Diverse Women From Different Countries . We Combined Our Best Creative Knowledge , Worked Together As A Team And Made A Cohesive Presentation Which Was Applauded By All .It Was Not Only A Good Learning Experience But Also It Shaped My Vision As A Designer.
Which Designer In Footwear Industry Do You Most Admire And Why?
Tinker Hatfield Undoubtedly Is Someone I Look Upto . He Is Not A Creator But A Disruptor . He Has Always Tried To Challenge The Design Standards – Be It Making Technology Visible In The Iconic Air Max 1 , Or The Iconic Elephant Print And Jumpman Logo On Jordan 3’S ,To Designing Mid Basketball Sneakers And E.A.R.L . One Thing I Learnt From Him Is That If You Have Even The Wildest Idea And You Truly Believe In It You Should Work On It Till You Get It Right . Nike Hyperadapt 1.0 Is The Biggest Example Of That .
How do you feel footwear design has evolved over the past years and how do you see it evolving in the future?
Its Interesting To See How Footwear Design Has Evolved From Being Just A Functional Product , Into A Fashion And Lifestyle Product And Then A Combination Of Both Functionality And Fashion . We Have Seen The Designs Evolve In Terms Of Use Of Technology And Sustainable Practices . Over Past Few Decades. There Was A Focus On DesignIng With Transparency, Ethics And Social Conscience Than Just Performance.
Going Forward Design Thinking In The Footwear Industry Will Take On A New Sense Of Purpose . Rewriting The Codes Of Creativity , Advances In Science And Materials Will Make It Possible To Re-Engineer And Use DNA And Micro-Organisms To Solve The Macro Problems Of Tomorrows Consumers Through Designs.
What would be your dream design project?
To Lead A Design Project For Air Jordan Like Tinker Hatfield And Dr. D’wayne Edwards.
What’s your creative process and what creative software do you use?
To Design A Shoe You Have To Put Yourself In Someone Else’s Shoes. I Always Start With Research On My Consumer And The Brand I Am Designing For . Study The Market What Is The Latest Innovation Done By The Competition Brands In The Similar Category ,The Problems In The Existing Products And What Innovative Solutions I Can Provide To Make It Better . Then Comes Ideation And Refining The Design Stage . I Prefer To Do Hand Sketches And Fine Tune My Design Digitally In Illustrator And Photoshop.
What kind of questions do you ask before beginning a shoe design ? What piece of information is of utmost value?
What Do I Wish To Accomplish Through My Design ? Because It Influences How My Consumer Will Respond To The End Product . How Can I Make A Product Which Is Instinctive And Should Simplify And Enhance My Consumers Performance . The Most Valuable Information Is About My Consumer’s Feet.
What kind of culture or structure needs to exist to foster successful team collaboration?
Footwear Brands Need To Understand That The Post Pandemic Stage Will See The Emergence Of A New Conscious Consumer , Wanting To Overcome Self Created Social And Racial Barriers And To Reconnect , Awaken And Nurture The Spirit Of Humanity , And Teams Or Brands Supporting This Thought And A Diverse And Inclusive Structural Format Will Not Only Foster A Successful Team Collaboration But Also Will Increase Their Impact On Their Consumers . Most Brands Talk About Diversity And Inclusivity But It Is So Far Only Seen In Advertisements . Its Time For Global Footwear Brands Like Nike , Adidas And Others To Change The Narrative And Diversify The Design Teams And Give An Opportunity To Talented Designers From Other Countries Too. If Not Them Then Who !
How do you deal with feedback?
As Designers We Are Bound To Get Feedback Whether We Ask For It Or Not . It Might Not Be Always A Glowing Compliment . For Me It Is Very Important To Recognise The Good Intention Behind A Feedback As It Is The Key To Producing Great Work . Like Ken Blanchard Says “ Feedback Is The Breakfast Of Champions.”
What are you working on now, what is in the pipeline for you?
I Train Upcoming Sneaker Designers And I Keep Myself Engaged By Doing New Projects For My Portfolio . I Am Currently Open To Opportunities In The Sneaker Industry.
How has the pandemic affected your work and design process?
I Think Pandemic Did Effect Everyone In Some Or The Other Way . It’s Difficult For A Creative Person To Create When In Confinement But Then One Has To Learn To Adapt . I Kept My Brain Charged By Meditating And Doing Yoga. I Was Staying Focussed By Keeping Myself Occupied By Doing My Creative Consultancy And Getting Involved With A Friends Sneaker Business . Although I Wasn’t Getting Paid For It . But I Took It As An Opportunity To Polish My Skills.
How do you feel about the topic of sustainability in regards to footwear design in general?
The Footwear Industry Produces 23.5 Billion Pairs Of Shoes Annually For 7.6 Billion People In The World . Most Of Which Doesn’t Have A Clear Circular Cycle . One Can Only Imagine The Amount Of Environmental Waste It Contributes To .I Believe As Footwear Designers We Have The Moral And Ethical Obligation To Infuse Sustainability In Our Designs And Be Aware Of The Environmental Impacts Of Our Work . For Us Designer’s It’s Not An Obligation But A Power Which We Should Use Wisely To Reshape The Future World.
What would you tell your younger self seeing you winning the awards?
“ Thank You ! For Not Giving Up . Failing A Thousand Times , Believing In Yourself And Trying Again . This Award Is Dedicated To You .”
What is your design mantra you live by?
Imagine Limitless , Believe And Make It Happen.
With so many designs coming out daily, how do you keep pushing boundaries in footwear deign?
As A Designer Its Always My Effort To Allign The Modern Day Design Process And Technology With Ancient Values And Give The Consumer A Reason To Connect With The Product At A Deeper Level . To Push Boundaries It Is Important To Know What Has Come Before So We Can Have Foresight To Imagine What Will Take Us Forward And Make Our Design Click With The Future Consumers.
Where do you start when tackling innovative design solutions?
I Have A Very Hollistic And Human – Centric Approach To Finding An Innovative Design Solutions . My Focus Is Not Only On Improving The Performance And Comfort Through My Design But Majorly On How My Design Can Influence The Mental Wellbeing Of My Consumer . I Am Always Researching On Innovations In Materials And Technology To Find An Intersection Between Physical Form And Human Consciousness . As The Future Of Performance Products Is How Our DNA Responds To The External Environment .We Will Use DNA And Micro Organisms To Solve The Macro Problems Of Tomorrow.
What advice would you give to future aspiring footwear designers?
If You Believe Your Idea Has A Potential Try To Work On It Every Single Day . Make It Better Till You Get It Right . Be Consistent And Push Your Own Boundaries.
What do you think will keep pushing the footwear industries forward?
In The Post Pandemic World Consumer Will Be Looking For A Meaning Full And Inspiring Brand Philosophy And Not Just A Hyped Beautiful Pair Of Shoes . Footwear Brands Which Will Champion The Purpose Of Integrating Human Needs For Touch And Physicality In A World Of Invisible Tech By Finding A Balance Between The Two Will Increase Their Impact With The Future Generations.
What do you wish to see more of in the footwear industries?
Very Strong Women’s Sneaker Line Across Brands Which Even Men Want In Their Sizes . That Would Be A Change In The Narrative.
How do you handle pressure in design?
Tensions Are Always High On ANy Design Project . I Divide My Time Equally And Focus On Each Step Of The Process At A Time -Product And Consumer Research , Problem , Solution And Then The Design .Which Helps Me In Finishing My Work On Time . I Also Involve In Team Discussions For Constructive Inputs Time To Time.
How do you feel about the impact of new technology towards footwear design and the industry as a whole?
A Purely Techno-Centric View Of Innovation As Far As Footwear Design Is Concerned Is Less Sustainable. Footwear Industry Should Focus On Intimately Blending More Sustainable Natural Resources And Technology . We Need Products That Balance The Needs Of Consumer Who WantS SMart Products That Improve’s Performance And Augment Their Lifestyle , At The Same Time Have A Sense Of Purpose To Be Environmentally And Socially Responsible.
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Marija Vlasova discussed Woolings World, GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. Woolings World was awarded the best in Men’s Casual category for independent level.
Woolings Worldis a handmade 100% wool felt shoes and boots, produced in Latvia/EUROPE. We are using high quality German felt, that is comfortable for walking. Your feet don’t sweat and feel free and warm in cold conditions. Our product is Vegeterian, we use rubber or faux leather only. The production of every new pair of Woolings starts with measurements, making sure it fits perfectly! Next – client chooses his model and color combination, so each pair is unique and one of a kind. Wool is a breathable fabric and our loafer design is great for summer, so Woolings can be worn all year long.
Marija’s background
All started back in 1986 in Riga, Latvia. Maria was born. From early childhood M was dressing herself in her own manner. Starting sewing at the age of 9, she was creating interesting peaces, while there was nothing on the market.
At that time M’s mother became makeup artist, so they started to experiment together. And From 15 years M already started to work as stylist and assistant with her MoM, who became professional photographer herself.
At the same time she decided to go to art school in Riga, and made it through a big competition and finished with diploma in Fashion design and knitwear. It was interesting and challenging times. After learning how to sew, draw, create, M was so excited, that she left country and moved to London at the age of 19. Her aim was to study in Central Saint Martins. Going through summer courses in that famous university, M was dreaming to come back.
Now she is in London and life isn’t so easy on her without contact’s or even money. Working in few places, before landing in Harrods, Escada.
Great job to learn how to sell, and she turns into the best sales assistant in 3 month. But after one year M realised, she should go home and make something she can call her own. 6 months later “Underwater Revolution” collection was born. It was presented during Riga Fashion Week. This collection made her famous among Fashion folk in Riga, M made some more projects like labourer cloth, more fashion show’s in Riga followed, Fashion show in Moscow Fashion Week, Fashion Jewellery brand and some more.
She is 22 now, working in movie “Miss Irenas children” as costume designer, finding out she is pregnant. After giving birth to Rada, she decided to start a new project, warm Vegetarian shoes.
Starting from nothing, just an idea in her mind, M made Europe/Ukrainian trip to find all required components and Woolings was born. Thousands of shoes, all custom & handmade were sold and made every customer happy, before Maria got sick and shut down everything.
After two years M managed to reopen brand, but with totally new look, models, fabrics and concept.
New Woolings became Woolings World on The 8th Of November 2019.
GFA talks with Marija’s about her winning project.
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
We believe that our individual approach highlights the philosophy of Woolings.
What does this award mean to you personally?
I see it as a recognition of years of hard work
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
Having to go through multiple ups and downs over the years
What is your guiding design principle?
Comfort is the king
Where do you get motivation and inspiration from for your work?
The feedback and positive energy coming from satisfied customers keeps me rolling
How/when did you discover that you wanted to work in design?
I wasn’t sure about the future calling even while I was at the design school, but made up my mind right after the graduation sensing that making comfortable footwear is my path
How do you think your own culture and environment has shaped your personal and professional creative vision?
I guess it resulted in making practical and comfortable product
What would be your dream design project?
I would love to create a sustainable bag design
What kind of culture or structure needs to exist to foster successful team collaboration?
Trust, mutual respect, creative freedom and inspiring experience
What are you working on now, what is in the pipeline for you?
Working on a new shoe design
How has the pandemic affected your work and design process?
Our footwear is created to be sold in boutiques, we need a direct contact with our audience. Selling online is a challenge for us
How do you feel about the topic of sustainability in regards to footwear design in general?
It’s a cornerstone of my philosophy. Sustainable, comfortable and …..at some point affordable shoes
What is your design mantra you live by?
Comfort and simplicity
With so many designs coming out daily, how do you keep pushing boundaries in footwear design?
By staying true to myself and the principles I have started with
What advice would you give to future aspiring footwear designers?
Be yourself, follow your own path.
What do you think will keep pushing the footwear industries forward?
Innovative, sustainable design
How do you handle pressure in design?
I have distanced myself from pressure of having to create, it comes naturally when I feel doing so.
Global Footwear Awards Category winner Vrinda Gupta discussed MIRET, GFA 2020 winning design.
Making its debut on the international design stage, Global Footwear Awards (GFA) has begun its global search to identify the most innovative design in footwear. MIRET was awarded the best in sustainable category for pro level.
MIRET combined the strongest natural fibres to craft sneakers which are kind to your feet as much as they are kind to nature. Not only can they substitute synthetic materials, but in many ways they are far better than plastic. We are using 10 amazing plants: hemp, kenaf, linen, cork tree, wood, corn, jute, eucalyptus, rubber tree and New Zealand wool to craft our 97% ecological MIRET sneakers. We are industry insiders who have used our manufacturing expertise to redesigned sneakers from the bottom up, making them compatible with nature.
IDA Design Awards 2020 Gold medal.
Hrvoje‘s background
Hrvoje Boljar is a Croatian entrepreneur, innovator, and co-founder of the Croatian sustainable footwear company MIRET.
While studying product design at the School of Design in Zagreb, Boljar started working with his father Josip Boljar who was an entrepreneur and founder of a small Croatian footwear brand Mr Joseph. During this time Hrvoje and his brother Domagoj have transformed the family business and started developing and manufacturing high-end footwear for European luxury brands such as KrisVanAssche, Lemaire, Paco Rabanne, Daniel Essa, ETQ etc. In 2018 after a disruption in the market they were forced to close down the factory. This closure could might as well been a blessing in disguise, as it freed up their time and energy to really focus on the MIRET project. Since then great strives have been made and MIRET has become recognised worldwide as one of the forerunners of sustainable footwear.
GFA talks with Hrvoje about his winning project.
What is your background?
Hrvoje Boljar is a Croatian entrepreneur, innovator, and co-founder of the Croatian sustainable footwear company MIRET.
While studying product design at the School of Design in Zagreb, Boljar started working with his father Josip Boljar who was an entrepreneur and founder of a small Croatian footwear brand Mr Joseph. During this time Hrvoje and his brother Domagoj have transformed the family business and started developing and manufacturing high-end footwear for European luxury brands such as KrisVanAssche, Lemaire, Paco Rabanne, Daniel Essa, ETQ etc. In 2018 after a disruption in the market they were forced to close down the factory. This closure could might as well been a blessing in disguise, as it freed up their time and energy to really focus on the MIRET project. Since then great strives have been made and MIRET has become recognised worldwide as one of the forerunners of sustainable footwear.
What do you see as the strengths of your winning project?
With so much plastic in the earth, air and water, with so many huge environmental problems surfacing every day, I have personally developed a sort of a phobia and disgust towards plastics and toxic chemicals. This obsession is forcing me to try and develop each and every tiniest component and manufacturing process in a more sustainable way. 6 years into this obsession and MIRET sneakers are at 97% bio-based content. They are far from being completely sustainable and a lot of work needs to be done, but I feel it is the right path.
Often I am tempted to make compromises in favour of aesthetics and comfort, but I am very proud that I resist the temptations. Our sneakers are comfortable, durable and look nice, but they are not the most comfortable nor the most beautiful in the world and they don’t need to be.
What does this award mean to you personally?
It is a great acknowledgement of a 6 year long research and work. A lot still needs to be done and this is just the beginning, but this recognition is a great encouragement for future work.
What was most important for you when working on this project and what were the biggest challenges you faced?
I got involved with the footwear industry when I was very young and I saw the industry first-handed from the inside. I realised that the products of the industry are incompatible with nature and that the whole process from raw material to the end of the products life-cycle is toxic to the environment. I also noticed how everyone was blind to this. From that moment on, the most important for me was to start doing things in a better way, one material at a time, component by component, step by step. The greatest challenge was to find manufacturing partners who understood this, and who had pure intentions. I should call them heroes and warriors.
What is your guiding design principle?
My primary principle is ecology. I am fully aware that everything us humans make has a negative effect to the environment, but there are ways of doing things better. That is what we should aspire to and that is the nature’s way.
How do you think your own culture and environment has shaped your personal and professional creative vision?
Ever since I was a young boy I was visiting footwear component factories alongside my father who was an entrepreneur. I went behind closed doors of the industry and saw the production processes. When you see this immensely complex chain of manufacturing anyone would think the process is unchangeable. You are led to believe that all this toxic manufacturing process is normal, and that things must be done that way. I started to work for my father when I was 24, and very soon I was lost as I saw no purpose, no sense in the products we were manufacturing. It all felt very wrong. And so began my quest for healthier materials and for manufacturing partners willing to listen, willing to acknowledge there was a problem and brave enough to try to make a change.
Tell us about a project which has been your greatest achievement?
MIRET is my greatest achievement. It has become more of a quest and an obsession than a project. Through the past 6 years I have learned that most people are still not aware of the enormity and seriousness of the negative impact of footwear to the environment. We are at the beginning of the era where sustainability comes first. Through the MIRET project we try to inform the public and shed light on the urgency of environmental action needed.
How do you feel footwear design has evolved over the past years and how do you see it evolving in the future?
Over the past few years we have seen enormous improvement with the focus switching to sustainability. That is the future and the more brands embrace this, the sooner it will become a norm. There is a flood of greenwashing happening as well which throws a shadow on sustainability, but this was inevitable and is actually a good sign showing how important this subject has become. Regulations and regulatory bodies will be necessary quite soon to adequately regulate the “sustainable” aspect of the market. A lot of things still need to change in the footwear industry and I have no doubt that the future generations will be appalled to what we are wearing now – aesthetic, functional and environmentally wise.
What are you working on now, what is in the pipeline for you?
We are actively trying to develop new materials and manufacturing techniques which will render our products more eco friendly. We believe everything starts with materials and we design our products around them. In the meantime we have started cooperating with companies from different industries not linked directly to footwear. We are working on making their products more sustainable by implementing the knowledge we obtained through the development of our own materials.
How do you feel about the topic of sustainability in regards to footwear design in general?
Everyone would like that the subject of “sustainability” is simple and straightforward, but it is very complex indeed. An ideal sustainable product would be compostable, recyclable, made out of renewable bio-based sustainably-grown materials, locally sourced, locally manufactured and extremely durable.
But making such a product is kind of paradoxical. When designing a sustainable product, one of the main things we need to consider is its durability and lifespan (setting aside product obsolescence other than wear and tear). In order to prolong the product-life and durability we must make it resistant to degradation factors like abrasion, tear, uv-rays, temperature, humidity, fungal and bacterial rotting, insect attacks.
So, while making the product durable we are inherently making it less compatible with nature. Leather and synthetics are made to last, but also made to be “indigestible” to bacteria and fungi, inhibiting the material to return to the natural cycle.
Another approach would be to develop a recyclable product, but the problem of recycling is multiple. If we were to learn from example we would see that a product which is easily recyclable like PET bottles, with a good system of returns like we have in Croatia, still ends up discarded in the environment and landfills. Even the collected PET can be recycled a limited number of times before the materials degrades beyond the level where it can be recycled anymore.
All in all, we are desperate for innovative and groundbreaking sustainable materials.
How do you feel about the impact of new technology towards footwear design and the industry as a whole?
New technology is key to developing future materials, but we must not disregard old unused knowledge. The world before synthetics and oil was much more in-tune with nature. We must not forget why plastics are all around us – because they are very cheap and easy to work with. There are more sustainable alternatives already out there, it is just that they were abandoned because they were not able to compete with petroleum derived plastics, economically wise. Until we are able to lower the “green premium”, green products will not be able to compete with synthetics. One other important thing to note is that our relation to the environment and nature starts already at home and in educational systems. So what thrills me is a shift in design schools happening all around the world, which is slowly moving the emphasis from designing products towards material research and development.